Tent Peak Climbing

Trip Introduction

Tharpu Chuli (5,663m) is more commonly known as Tent Peak and is situated in the Annapurna region of Nepal at the head of the Annapurna Sanctuary. It was first climbed on (but not summited) by Col. Jimmy Roberts in 1956 during an exploration of the area prior to a British expedition to Machapuchare in 1957.

The peak was first summited in 1964 by a Japanese group on an expedition to Annapurna South led by Dr Haruo Higuchi. They climbed the South East Ridge, Alpine Grade AD and this is the sloping skyline to the right of the main photo. The easier North West Ridge, Alpine Grade PD, is to the left of the main photo and was first climbed by Gunter Hauser and a German party in 1965.

The peak is easy to get to, and gives good/easy snow and ice climbing at a relatively low altitude. It is renowned for its views of the whole Annapurna range and Machapuchare. The peak is initially viewed from the original Annapurna Base Camp famously used by the two expeditions of Maurice Herzog in 1950 and Chris Bonnington in 1970.

North West Ridge:

This route is graded as Alpine PD and is essentially in three stages, first stage to establish a base camp, second to a high camp, third the climb which is in two parts. From Annapurna base camp follow the trail east along the moraine towards a large cairn/chorten marking the descent path onto the South Annapurna glacier on your right.

Descend a fairly steep trail onto the glacier/moraine helping your porters. There is a line of cairns, sometimes flags, crossing this glacier which will take you to the boulder moraine on the far side. Ascend the cliffs and go to the left of a dry gully up onto the grassy area and choose your site for a base camp. (13,500ft).

To get to your high camp from here, follow the edge of the moraine North West until you reach a deep cut gully with a stream. Turn sharp right and follow a path heading towards Tharpu Chuli keeping the gully on your left. When the path flattens off, cross the stream and contour to an obvious flat area at 14,500ft as the first option for a high camp.

If you want to go higher, there is a further option at 16,000ft gained by following a ridge above the site at 14,500ft to another level area. From your high camp follow the slopes towards Rakshi Peak on your left and keeping to the left of the glacier and crevasses.

At 17,500ft cross the glacier heading directly towards the fantastic looking fluted wall which separates Tharpu Chuli and Singu Chuli. The right hand end of the wall is the easiest angle for climbing with a gain of between 400ft and 600ft to climb. The angle is between 45 and 55 degrees, the best part of the peak once you have crossed the bergschrund!

On reaching the NW ridge turn right and begin your ascent up a wide ridge which narrows to a knife edge for the final 150ft at 50 degrees. You made it, enjoy one of the best views in Nepal.

Outline Itinerary

• • Day 01
  • Arrival day in Kathmandu (1300m)
• • Day 02
  • trek preparation for Climbing
• • Day 03
  • Drive to Pokhara (823m/2,700ft.) 7 hours
• • Day 04
  • Drive to Biretanty and trek to Ghandruk (1940m/6360 ft): 5-6 hours trek
• • Day 05
  • Ghandruk to Chhomrong (2170m/7120feet.), 5 - 6 hours
• • Day 06
  • Trek to Dobhan [2840m/9318feet.], 6 to 7 hours
• • Day 07
  • Trek to Machhapuchre Base camp (3700m)
• • Day 08
  • Acclimatization day in Machhapuchre Base Camp
• • Day 09
  • Machhapuchre Base Camp to Cave Camp (4,250m/13,943ft): 5-6 hours
• • Day 10
  • Cave Camp to High Camp (5,200m/17,056 ft): 4-5 hours
• • Day 11
  • Summit Tent Peak (Tharpu Chuli), return to high camp: 9-10 hours
• • Day 12
  • Tent Peak High Camp to Machapuchhre Base Camp: 4-5 hours
• • Day 13
  • Machhapuchre Base camp to Bamboo [2310m/7575ft.], 6 hours trek
• • Day 14
  • Bamboo to New Bridge/Jhinu Dada [1760m/5770 ft.], 6 hours trek
• • Day 15
  • Jhinu Dada to siwai and drive to Pokhara
• • Day 16
  • Pokhara to Kathmandu, 6-7 hours by Drive
• • Day 17
  • Free Day in Kathmandu
• • Day 18
  • Final Departure